'Fly me to the moon. Let me play among the stars,' croons Frank Sinatra to signify the conclusion of an epic 19-course dining marathon. The lights have been dimmed, with the only glow permeating the darkness coming from a set of hypnotising white globes, that are topped by two cubes of white, bubbly chocolate. A glass pot of fragrant tea accompanies this sweet ending, and as we devour and sip, the consensus between my date and myself is that we have just savoured an out of this world gastronomic experience.
On this pleasant winter evening, we find ourselves at Trèsind Studio, Chef Himanshu Saini’s two Michelin-star epicurean journey around India. Situated alongside the eclectic bars and restaurants of St. Regis Gardens, the much-vaunted restaurant guides gourmands through the subcontinent’s diverse culinary geography. Regions including the Thar Desert, Deccan Plateau, Coastal Plains, and Northern Plains and Himalayan Mountains, are all beautifully illustrated by a detailed 3D map of the country, which is presented at the table whenever we cross into each new gastronomic area.
Spanning six white-clothed tables, only 20 seats are available during two daily sittings. Regardless of your location, all guests are positioned to face an open kitchen where the team whips up culinary magic. We are welcomed to our table by a glass of piquant coconut water and a refreshing towel, as well as the Synergy Pairing drinks menu. Spotlighting Trèsind Studio’s sustainability ideals, the drinks list of home-brewed licensed beverages from the Papadom Botanic Bar, utilises kitchen by-products to curate a unique selection of pairings that complement and enhance the 19 plates of the forthcoming Rising India menu.
The opening stanzas of the meal commence with what the menu describes as 'Snacks'. Here, we find ourselves delving into the restaurant’s unique take on a papadum; a shiso khakhra served on a stone slab; a South Indian doughnut of medu vada, lathered in gorgonzola dolce and parmesan saaru and the scrumptious ‘not a nigiri’ langoustine. There’s also a dash of theatrics to savour, with a volcano-style glass cylinder bubbling with green plum aguachile (chili water), that is poured into a crispy pani puri, packed with avocado and jicama. Saini’s creativity shines through in the final snack with a tomato tikka masala served with what is best described as liquid naan bread in a glass.
Engaging centrepieces are a major theme throughout the evening, with a circular sand of time announcing the beginning of our journey across the Thar Desert. It is here that a toasty serving of asparagus and anise broth is presented alongside an innovative rice dish that contains no trace of the much-loved grain; a dish known as white asparagus rice-no-rice with pandan kadhi. Completing our travels across the Great Indian Desert’s undulating dunes is an unusual combination of a breaded, pickled pepper and wooden bowl of khandvi ice-cream that resembles a sunny-side-up fried egg.
Leaving the desert behind, we plot a course to the lush region of the Deccan Plateau. In the shadow of a plant centrepiece, we tuck into skewered but oh-so-tender coconut slices that are dripping with lashings of nilgiri spices and accompanied by a side of yuzu rasam. This is followed by one of our favourite courses of the night, the exquisite ghee roast crab, which is exhibited in a cinnamon stick and extracted using steel tweezers.
On the Coastal Plains, a delicate, slow-cooked turbot, decorated with an assortment of colourful petals and a spoonful of black truffle thokku is showcased alongside a pickled carrot, Alleppey curry and a lobster tail that boasts a spicy kick. The final leg of our food adventure around India takes us to the Northern Plains and Himalayan Mountains. Championing the country’s street food culture, a kebab scarpetta — presented on a lit copper pan, whose flame must be blown out — and sourdough toast offers a stylish twist on a simple but moreish nibble, before a bowl of king oyster noodles, infused with morel shoyu and topped with black fungus XO, brings down the curtain on the savoury display of gastronomic excellence.
With belts starting to buckle, room is found for an oyster pearl with rambutan and sea water palate cleanser, before a pecan tart with ash roasted artichokes and black fruits ice-cream and banana and hazelnut tortellini, drenched in miso caramel and South Indian filter coffee are finished off with enthusiasm.
With the retention of its two Michelin-stars in 2024, Trèsind Studio has firmly established itself as one of Dubai’s culinary heavyweights. A testament to Himanshu Saini’s vision of inventive cuisine married with a sense of theatre — the surprise Sadya course is truly one to behold — the fine-dining Indian restaurant is a must for any gastronome that visits the city. As the evening approaches its inevitab;e conclusion, Frank Sinatra has moved on to ‘My Way’ and is telling us the end is near. It’s time to leave but we will be back very soon.
Tresindstudio.com
