A great purveyor of innovative Japanese cooking, Ross Shonhan’s name has become synonymous with the cuisine thanks to stints with Nobu and ZUMA, before founding the popular London eateries of Bone Daddied Ramen, Shack-fuyu and Flesh and Buns. Now, the Australian chef is spreading the word on the tradition of Warayaki — a technique from Japan’s Kochi prefecture, where food is cooked to perfection over straw-fired flames—at his two UAE restaurants, Netsu and Strawfire. Here, he talks about his first forays into the culinary world and the UAE’s food scene.  

When did you know being a chef and working in the culinary world was for you?
I started [cheffing] as an excuse to leave university. Initially I wasn’t sure it was the right path for me. I enjoyed the physically demanding nature of the job, but early in my career, it was hard to fully appreciate it all. As I progressed through my apprenticeship and took on more senior roles, I found a direct correlation between success and enjoyment. It took a few years, but I eventually realised this was my passion. 

Your restaurants spotlight Japanese cuisine. How did your interest in Japanese dining come about?
I worked in a hotel in Brisbane, Australia, that had a Japanese restaurant and the kitchen was exclusively manned by Japanese chefs. I used to spend time with the chefs, talk to them and they would offer me food to taste, and I found that really interesting.

Can you talk us through your creative process when it comes to crafting new dishes?
It often starts with the memory of my travels in Japan; usually something I encountered. Then I think of how to translate that experience to the audience I am catering for.

Sometimes it doesn’t require very much work because it’s easily accessible, and other times, we put our own spin on it to make it interesting and different.  

What are your thoughts on the evolution of the UAE food scene?
I really think it’s great and in the several years that I have been coming to the UAE, I’ve seen the food scene maturing and evolving. There are more regional specialities from different countries being celebrated in a variety of ways. It’s also not all luxury restaurants and Michelin stars, which I quite like.

Here in Dubai, you have Netsu and in Abu Dhabi, you have Strawfire. What inspired the concepts and how do they co-relate?
Netsu and Strawfire co-relate in that they are both focused on Warayaki cooking; they are the two largest restaurants outside of Japan that cook like this. After working for two of the best global Japanese restaurant brands [Nobu and ZUMA], I was searching for a point of difference that really separated me from those brands, as well as anyone who had worked for them and set up their own restaurants.

Your restaurants are found around the globe. When looking to launch a new restaurant, what are the key attributes of a destination that you will consider?
I want to be in cities that truly celebrate hospitality and have an openness to trying new culinary experiences. It’s important that the dining culture is dynamic, with people who appreciate authenticity and innovation.

Outside of cooking, what are your all-consuming passions?
I enjoy outdoor activities. As I get older, my goal is to be somewhere warm, where I can take up kite surfing and go fishing more often. The UAE would be ideal for both.

And finally, are there any exciting announcements or new openings you would like to tell us about?
The biggest project I’m working on currently is a new seafood restaurant in Mayfair in London. That should be open by the summer of this year and I look forward to announcing it shortly.

THE GRILLING..................

FIRST DISH YOU REALLY ‘MASTERED’ COOKING? I struggle with this question because I’m always trying to improve what I do, therefore I’m not sure I’ve ever really mastered something.

WHAT MOTTO DO YOU LIVE BY OR COOK BY? Live, eat and cook with real seasonal ingredients, not processed ingredients, at all times.

BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU’VE BEEN GIVEN THROUGHOUT YOUR CAREER? Taste dishes in the dining room as a guest does; this is where you will learn the most about what they will experience.

FAVOURITE DISH TO COOK? A simple roast chicken with vegetables and gravy in cold weather, and salad and vinaigrette when it’s warm.

THREE INGREDIENTS YOU COULD NEVER COOK WITHOUT? Soy sauce, fish sauce and salt.

BAR YOUR OWN, FAVOURITE RESTAURANT IN THE WORLD? Mar do Inferno (Cascais – Portugal) and Yakitori Tsukiya (Tokyo).

FAVOURITE CITY TO TRAVEL TO FOR FOOD? Tokyo or Osaka for sure.

IF YOU HAD A LAST MEAL, WHAT WOULD IT BE AND WHY? A tray of Hokkaido Uni with my wife. We both love it.

GREATEST FOOD INDULGENCE? Some great caviar on New Year’s Eve.

STRANGEST THING YOU’VE EATEN? I tried fried bugs in Thailand at a local market with no tourists in sight. I saw plenty of locals eating them and I figured it made sense to give them a try. Surprisingly, they weren’t bad.

MOST MEMORABLE MEAL? I’ve had so many. However, each time I go back to Australia and have a feast of local seafood with my family, it is always memorable.

WHO HAS INSPIRED YOU MOST THROUGHOUT YOUR CAREER AND WHY? I’ve worked for some good mentors who have taught me a lot, but the main motivator is often just being good enough so that your family doesn’t need to worry about you.