In a city where culinary competition is fierce, the serving of exclusivity usually finds its way to the top of everyone’s menu. We all love being privy to those one-of-a-kind gastronomic experiences that are not available for everyone, and tucked away on the fourth floor of Bulgari Hotel Dubai, Michelin-starred Hoseki delivers those moments, one delicious bite at a time.
Helmed by sixth-generation sushi master Masahiro Sugiyama, guests find their way to the intimate venue via a private, bronzed door elevator that is obscured by its own corridor, just off the hotel’s lobby. Upon arrival, guests are led through a special Tokonoma (entry room) by a hostess sporting a traditional kimono to their seat; one of only nine places at the open-kitchen table. The restaurant is minimalist in design with understated elegance and clean-lined décor reigning supreme. However, the emphasis of this ‘gemstone’ (English for Hoseki) is firmly placed on sublime service, precision culinary technique and incredible tastes.
Taking my seat along with eight other very eager diners, Chef Masahiro greets me with an explanation of how the evening shall proceed. It’s an omakase tailored experience, meaning there is no need to peruse a menu — my favourite kind of dining. Each course is based on the gourmand’s preference, resulting in no two meals ever being replicated. But for this evening, I’m entrusting my fate to the team and their prime ingredients, imported directly from Japan, and I’m not disappointed.
The evening begins with a palate-cleansing aperitif of Japanese tea before I'm presented with a plating of barracuda, followed by horribly named but exquisite hairy crab.
Up next are three pieces of beautifully sliced sea bream sashimi, accompanied by wasabi, soy sauce and a dashing of salt. Finishing off the larger plates is grilled rosy sea bass and the excellent foie gras-like monkfish liver and seared octopus tentacle, which is cooked to perfection.
The journey continues with a supreme selection of sushi. There’s flounder, trout, yellow jack and three kinds of bluefin tuna, which we are encouraged to eat with our hands and not chopsticks. They. Are. All. To. Die. For. So good is the bluefin tuna, I get an extra serving before we round off the segment with flavourful squid on which I am urged to sprinkle salt and lime, sea urchin, a collection of white shrimps and a tiger prawn.
With the brief interlude, I take time to gaze out at the stunning views of the Dubai landscape that are surrendered from our lofty position on Jumeira Bay Island. However, the action in the kitchen is too enthralling to be distracted by the city’s megastructures for too long as Chef Masahiro and his team showcase their expert knife skills to my fellow guests. A fragrant hot cup of miso soup offers a change of culinary pace and clears the way for a refreshing dessert omelette, consisting of mocha cake and a piquant gathering of fruits including the best melon I have ever tasted.
As far as omakase experiences go, Hoseki is one of the finest exponents of the art in Dubai. Curated by Chef Masahiro, gastronomes are introduced to the epicurean excellence of Japan through a series of refined, technically adept and beautifully presented dishes. With only nine chances to reserve a seat each evening, I'd suggest making a reservation as soon as you can.
Bulgarihotels.com
