When you think of Japanese cuisine, it’s hard not to think of Nobu. With restaurants all over the world, Old Park Lane in London has the distinct honour of being the first European destination for celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s restaurant collection, in which he blends Japanese cuisine with Peruvian ingredients – now coined as his iconic ‘Nobu style’.
Nobu restaurants first launched back in the early Nineties, when Hollywood actor and friend Robert De Niro approached Matsuhisa to discuss the idea of opening a restaurant together. The brand has, in just a few decades, as expanded to include 56 restaurants around the world, hotels and branded residences, as well as the world’s first Nobu by the Beach concept, which opened in Dubai in February this year.
But back in London, with a home at COMO Metropolitan, Nobu has made itself a bucket-list venue, with its award-winning Nikkei cuisine. Found on the first floor of the hotel, Nobu has its own entrance, allowing for a discreet and stylish arrival. In true Nobu style, the décor is minimalist in its design approach – all dark wood chairs contrasted against light wood tables and walls and dim lighting create an intimate and cosy atmosphere that lets the food take centre stage. There’s also a private dining room that invites a more intimate dinner affair, or the Nikkei bar that gifts diners an exclusive glimpse directly into the kitchen, as knives are wielded, and flames glow bright right in front of you.
While a table in the middle of the room will put you front and centre to the action, pick a spot by the window if you’re visiting for lunch, as the views over Hyde Park are exceptional.
There’s plenty to choose from, kicking off with ‘Nobu Classic’ cold dishes, such as Toro Tartare with Caviar, Tuna Tataki with Ponzu, Salmon Skin Salad or Field Greens with Matsuhisa Dressing. On the hot dish front, there’s Snow Crab with Creamy Spicy Sauce, Tea Smoked Lamb Anticucho and, for course, Nobu’s iconic Black Cod Miso. You can then dip and dive into Octopus Carpaccio with Jalapeño Dressing, Pan Fried Scallops with Yuzu Truffle and Wagyu Sukiyaki with Onsen Tamago, before venturing into vegetable territory with Brussels Sprout Ponzu, Shishito Peppers Den Miso or Shiitake Mushroom or Zucchini Tempura.
If, like me, you can’t choose, try an Omakase menu (which translates as ‘I’ll leave it up to you’) – choosing between Seasonal, Park Lane or Vegetarian – which allows you to try one of Chef Matsuhisa’s multi-course tasting menus, sampling some of his best-selling dishes across six courses.
Putting our dinner in the hands of the kitchen brings an element of surprise. I begin with Salmon Tartare with Caviar, which is served in an ice bowl and adorned with leaves. It’s incredibly light and delicate, and devilishly moreish. Next is Salmon and Shrimp with a Rocket Salad, along with an eyewatering platter of tuna, salmon and yellowtail sushi, that literally melt in the mouth. Next, the Black Cod Miso arrives (crossing my fingers clearly worked), which arrives wrapped in banana leaf with drops of miso oozing flavour, as my knife slices through the fish like butter. Soft, creamy, indulgent heaven. The Beef Toban Yaki is served next, a marinated and skilfully cooked steak served with mushrooms and asparagus that blend the Japanese taste with Peru’s penchant for beautiful cuts of meat. Served on a traditional Toban plate, the meat has a slightly smoky flavour to it.
Often the simplicity of the dishes combined with the precision and flawless execution is what makes the Nobu experience sing. It’s unequivocally fine dining in essence, but packaged in a more raw and laid-back way, as the Japanese oft like to do. Refined yet relaxed. There’s definitely a cosy comfort to the food, the richness of flavours almost like a tactile embrace, but also the venue too. Minimalist but with an intimate ambience that creates an air of exclusivity amidst its accessibility. If you’ve ever had Nobu’s Black Cod Miso, you’ll know just what I mean…
And the best thing, is once you’ve sated yourself on miso cod, you can simply roll yourself upstairs to a COMO Suite, and sink into one of its sumptuous sofas or your beautiful king bed and fall asleep amidst its pared-back luxury and the soothing views of Hyde Park. Sweet dreams with a side order of a sated appetite courtesy of Nobu.
WHAT: Nobu London
WHERE: COMO Metropolitan, Old Park Lane, London
TEL: +44 (0) 207 447 4747
www.comohotels.com
