Born into a family of traditional exotic skin tanners, Ethan Koh has built his bespoke, luxury handbag business from humble Singaporean beginnings into an inspirational brand, attracting some of the world’s most discerning and affluent clients.
Ethan K has grown to be a name synonymous with vibrant designs, bespoke craftsmanship and, above all, quality. With his bags gracing the arms of some of the most iconic figures in the world of fashion and retail, Ethan takes the time to answer some of our most pressing questions.
The Koh family has a very interesting history when it comes to tanning and craftsmanship, are you able to tell us about your background and how you came to work with exotic skins?
It does feel like I’ve been on a very special journey from the time my great grandfather – a fisherman in colonial Singapore – learnt the art of exotic skin tanning from a British trader. Growing up with my family’s tannery at the back of our home, my father and grandfather encouraged my siblings and I to be creative and try our hand at the age-old techniques. The art became part of my DNA at that point and motivated me to design some of my earliest precious creations.
What are the main factors that influence the crocodile skins that you work with and how do you measure quality?
When selecting the crocodile skin for my creation it takes a certain eye to really know what to look for. For example, the environment the crocodile was in is very important and it is why we only use a selection of the best-farmed crocodile skin including Niloticus from Zimbabwe and Porosus from Australia because of its cabochon-like scales.
Many factors can have an effect on the skin during the tanning, which is a very artistic process. While some say it is one 100 percent science, I consider it to be 50 percent science and 50 percent art. Once the skins are tanned I look at the skin in the early morning light, then in the afternoon light and then once more under artificial light at night. This is the way I visualise my creation.
This process often results in beautifully coloured skins, what inspires the trademark vibrancy of your designs?
This is a question so few people ask me and yet there is such a beautiful story behind it. My maternal grandfather was a fruit and spice trader in Singapore and while my mother was growing up she worked at my grandmother’s little stall in the market. This was very close to my father’s tannery and where they first met.
The smell and colours of Asian fruits and spices have always surrounded my family home, and my grandfather was fond of bedding beautiful plants in our garden. When I started designing my creations, I would often walk to the local markets and take fruits and spices back to the tannery to create colours based on the ingredients. In a way, the vibrancy of my exotic skins are a reflection of my colourful Asian heritage.
With each of your creations offering such a bright, unique aesthetic, who would you say is the typical Ethan K customer?
For all human beings their first home is where they live and for women their second home is their handbag. It carries their emotions, and that’s why my clients consider my creations an emotive purchase. My clients understand luxury and want to acquire art rather than fast fashion. Most importantly, they want to understand the journey each precious creation has been on.
You offer a made-to-order service as an integral part of your brand; presumably this is the start of the creative journey that you take with your clients? Do you draw inspiration from these requests?
Of course. I want my clients to walk in and be able to run wild with their imagination. My inspiration comes mostly from people, places and the process of talking to my clients, learning about who they are, where they have been and what they do.
The spirit of a person is very special to me and my creations are inspired by the lifestyle of the people I meet. Deciding what comes first, whether that is choosing the colour or the style, is very selective and depends entirely on the person I am designing for.
Which is your favourite bespoke handbag and for whom was it designed?
Choosing a favourite is difficult, but I really love my latest bespoke creation called The Marigay, which I made for Marigay McKee, the chief merchant at Harrods. I had many encounters with her and the blue of her bag was inspired by the blue walls in Marrakech where we spent some time together, whereas the lighter tones in the centre of the bag represent her favourite white orchids.
It is also adorned with an octagonal clasp made of Blue Tiger's Eye. This stone was picked especially for Marigay as it is said to promote a positive attitude, to enhance personal power and bring luck. The swirls of white amongst the deep blue in the stone are a mirror of the bag itself and the stone has been carefully carved into the shape of an octagon paying homage to the heritage of Ethan K. The octagon itself echoes a mixture of my Asian heritage, being a spiritual symbol of luck as well as my love of art deco opulence.
Your travels must have an impact on your designs. Do you have any favourite destinations, or any that you think epitomise creative fashion?
It’s hard to choose just one place because there are many countries I love for different reasons. I love drinking tea, and there is no better place for this than Capella Singapore. I am always feeling inspired after a therapy massage and watching the beautiful sunset at Capella with a pot of aromatic tea. I was inspired so much by this place that I created a special Sunset Minaudière clutch, representing the sunsets I see when I am there.
In terms of fashion creativity, I must say that Europe is where the spirit of craftsmanship and heritage meet. But I also think that Asia, in particular China, will continue to be the core of luxury with its deep-rooted heritage in porcelain and precious stones, which I use for my clasps.
If you had a top tip for travelling, what would it be?
My top tip is to embrace the fact that you can’t use your phone. Put it away and do something relaxing. I love reading and always take few books on heritage and art with me on the plane.
As a final question, one that no doubt many have asked themselves, what is the story behind the signature creatures that sit on each of your bags?
Well, when I was very young my parents bought a fairy tale book for me. This contained magical stories about creatures that would talk and go on many adventures. Each creature had its own story; the hedgehog was the nimble explorer who enjoyed travels and adventures whilst the frog represented luck and fortune and the snake represented sensuality and desires.
I remember my grandfather telling me that our family garden was magical – I later found out that this was the location of the old family crocodile farm – and I would be seen running around with my book trying to wave an invisible wand at the frogs and hedgehogs in the garden. When I started sketching my earliest designs these creatures kept coming back to me, which is why I chose to display them on top of my Minaudière clutches. They are, in a way, the symbol of my heritage.
Ethan K will launch its latest collection, The Wizard of the Secret Garden, later this year.
