Bagatelle opened late last year at Fairmont Dubai, having originally launched in New York City’s raucous Meatpacking District, and later expanding to Los Angeles, St. Tropez and others before landing in the Middle East. Now in the emirate, the French-Mediterranean concept has quite the reputation to live up to: the US outposts are allegedly legendary for their fashionable, boisterous guests brimming with joie de vivre (and their brunch, which is not yet an offering here, sounds like a particularly celebratory experience, to put it mildly).

Not opening its doors daily until 8pm – perhaps in an effort to weed out those more sedate, early-to-bed sorts (full disclosure: usually me) – my 8:30pm, midweek arrival saw a restaurant whose tables were just beginning to fill, but those there were lively, sociable and seemingly in the mood to mingle. An attitude that may be encouraged by a soundtrack of cheerful, loungey French tunes and bouncy remixes of golden oldies, such as “Under the Boardwalk”.

The space is light and airy, well lit by small chandeliers and given a cheerful atmosphere thanks to the Mediterranean blues and whites that colour the furnishings and walls, not to mention a smattering of potted fronds and whimsical pop art featuring the likes of a leaping Hulk and a coy Pepé Le Pew. The atmosphere, people and décor together achieve the impressive effect of genuinely making you feel like you’ve been transplanted from Dubai to the Côte d’Azur in July.

The bar area at Bagatelle Fairmont Dubai features an oversized clock motif

Soon enough, the restaurant fills up with gleeful friends, creating a scene that may just be one of the most fashionable and joyful I’ve witnessed in this city. I’m impressed, especially for a midweek night. Next to my table, a caped, fingerless-gloved, studded-bag-wielding, Kardashian-cum-Karl guest squeezes into her seat, nearly knocking all of the glasses on my table over in the process, like some sort of glassware-bowling farce. Five minutes later she gets up again and succeeds. I guess what I’m saying is the restaurant space is a touch cramped in places – especially when filled by exuberant, heavily accessorised patrons.

But no matter. I’d be lying if I didn’t admit the atmosphere and over-the-top attitude was infectious. Bagatelle is fun. But “fun” isn’t quite enough to draw guests back to a restaurant, and thankfully the quality of the food nearly matches the restaurant’s sensational vibe. Less fine French dining and more small restaurant; the dishes are meant to be shared and many contain a hint of spice, à la bistro, explains our waiter – who was just one aspect of great service that also included a gregarious sommelier and ready-to-please barman.

The restaurant has a bright and vibrant interior

We start with creamy tuna tartare with avocado and soy-lime dressing, a tangy bite spread over light, house-made crisps; bulbous little nibbles of succulent fried frogs’ legs paired with a remoulade sauce that packs a pleasant little kick of spice; and the unequivocal favourite – foie gras sliders, pan-seared and paired with bacon marmalade, mayonnaise and a pillowy potato bun – that are as rich as they are delicious, immediately setting our hearts pumping into overdrive.

I bypass red meat as my main – be still my beating heart, please – although my curiosity over the AED1,200 (US$326) Blackmore rib eye burns bright; is there a chance it’s worth it? Instead I try the pan-seared sea bass – and while the fish itself is good, its naturally mild taste does get a bit overwhelmed by the rest of the flavours on the plate: savoury barigoule sauce, leek fondue and distinct pickled vegetables. My dining partner devours the grilled lamb rack, worth venturing a bite of to sample juicy, tender meat that has been very nicely seared.

We wrap up the evening sharing Le Tipsy Cake (which I think is a portion best shared between four, not two), a decadent, fluffy brioche laced with cognac and paired with a trio of delectable dips, of which you may find yourself fighting over the salted caramel bowl with your fellow diners.

Contemporary art adorns the walls

Wrapping up the meal, we move behind the restaurant to a lounge, backed by a wall-length portion of a roman-numeral clock, that I was completely unaware existed until I was led there (I understand that soon Bagatelle’s main entrance will stem from an elevator accessed from outside the hotel, opening into the lounge). While there’s a nice wine list to scour, I recommend ordering from a cocktail menu that includes interesting and palate-pleasing concoctions such as the strong Shotgun with calvados and apricot brandy, and refreshing La Coquine featuring gin, elderflower liqueur and pamplemousse rose.

One of the more entertaining evenings I’ve had out in a while, Bagatelle has got my interest piqued to see how its riotous champagne brunch compares once it launches – which, I was informed, will hopefully be around April.

The important bit