I have always had sympathy for restaurants that are forced to uphold the reputation of a well-established brand on the ever-critical international stage. This is the exact challenge faced by Dubai’s newly opened Maison Bagatelle, a French bistro café that’s following in the footsteps of its incredibly successful New York based cousin, Bistrot Bagatelle, which, over the last 12 months, has forged a reputation as a lively venue, attracting the ‘who’s who’ of the Big Apple with champagne-soaked brunches, creative cocktails and pricey Parisian cuisine.
If Maison Bagatelle had merely shadowed its transatlantic cousin, I am sure it would have blended seamlessly into Dubai’s brunch-heavy social scene and been forgotten almost as suddenly as it arrived. But the restaurant hasn’t done that. Instead, it has begun to forge its own reputation as a quaint and friendly café, offering great quality French food at affordable prices. So, with this – and a friend’s recommendation – in mind, I decide to sample the restaurant’s breakfast menu, which I am promised will not disappoint.
The café sits on a trendy, palm tree-lined boulevard in Downtown Dubai, shadowed by the towering Burj Khalifa, just steps away from the pristine and decadent The Address Downtown Dubai.
I can’t imagine a location further removed from the bustling streets of Paris, the birthplace of café culture, but these musings are promptly curtailed as I step into the restaurant. The interior is spacious and light, with the predominantly neutral colour-theme enhanced by purposefully placed, vibrant pop art. With small chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and scattered books sitting on standing tables, it feels like an authentic French café.
I peruse the menu while sipping a perfectly infused Vanilla Black tea and resist the urge to order the Pancakes Bagatelle or Oeufs brouillés au saumon fume (smoked salmon with scrambled eggs and toasted brioche). Instead, I opt for the highly recommended Ouefs Benedict.
Adhering whole-heartedly to the age-old saying “the first bite is with the eye”, my dish is presented beautifully, and the first mouthful reveals more character than expected. The saltiness of thin, crisped pastrami compliments delicately poached eggs, and a subtly flavoured hollandaise sauce gives the dish its trademark, creamy consistency. The eggs are served atop a fresh, toasted English muffin with finely diced fried potato cubes, which are a slightly unnecessary addition to the meal.
Although the portion is hearty, it doesn’t quite quell my appetite, so I sample my dining partner’s mixed omelette. Combining smoky turkey ham, rich, nutty Gruyere cheese and fine herbs, the dish has a depth of flavour that is usually reserved for more complex evening menu offerings.
The meal has clearly been put together with culinary proficiency and I’m not surprised to learn that the menu was created by group executive chef, Tim Newton, the man behind the opening of Dubai’s critically acclaimed La Petite Maison, who greets us at our table. On his recommendation, I order the Pain Perdu (French toast) and a slice of carrot cake (which I had previously eyed up at the in-house Pâtisserie). Before the sweet treats arrive, a blended orange, carrot and ginger juice, one of many fresh blends on offer, acts as the perfect palate cleanser.
As I drizzle sweet, sticky syrup over the delicious-looking Pain Perdu I realise that the café has begun to swell with sharply dressed diners and local residents. The venue hums with casual chatter, punctuated by the occasional flash of a smartphone camera as diners snap mementos of their Parisian feast. The overall atmosphere feels relaxed and friendly, with a hint of decadent charm.
The French toast is just as it should be. The fresh-baked brioche is light and sugary with purposefully charred edges and a sticky texture, and the moist carrot cake rounds off an incredibly satisfying meal. Equally as satisfying is the bill, which is modest when compared to the quality of food on offer.
There is no doubting that Maison Bagatelle has undertaken a gargantuan challenge in attempting to bring French café culture to Dubai, but its combination of expert cuisine, quaint ambience and affordability could see this new café quickly transform into the Parisian oasis of the Arabian desert.
THE IMPORTANT BIT
Vanilla Black tea AED19 (US $5)
Pain Perdu AED34 (US $10)
Oeufs Benedict AED42 (US $12)
Omelette AED29 (US $8)
Orange, carrot & ginger blend AED24 (US $7)
Book: +971 4420 3442
