The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was founded in 1932, under the rule of King Abdulaziz Al Saud, who united the land. And it was only in 1938 that the country discovered oil, which is quite incredible when you look at the country’s supercharged development in just over 80 years. But while Saudi spearheads innovation and modernisation, in particular with Vision 2030’s transformative blueprint, the country, which covers over 2 million square kilometres, has endless pockets of protected culture and old civilisation

AlUla, which sits in the north west on the original incense road and pilgrimage route to Makkah, is a breathtaking jewel of archeological discovery. Thousands of tombs and burial places dot the golden sands, carved façades witness the intricate handiwork of those who’ve walked before us, with majestic monolithic stones acting as guardians watching over the lands.

The best place to experience the sites from is Habitas AlUla, a boutique eco-resort weaved into the Ashar Valley, built using sustainable materials and mindfully blending into the topography. It makes for quite a mind-boggling discovery when you turn off a dirt track to find 100 tented villas appear from the foot of the rocks. Each villa draws on nature, looking out over the canyon or the wind-whipped rock formations. The latter are stunning, all hollows and smooth lines belying the strength of these ancient boulders.

With so much culture and heritage swaddling the resort, the hotel is like a living, breathing museum, where each and every experience is rooted in tradition. A welcome ceremony on arrival helps you set your intentions for your stay, as you pour mastic into the flames of a small fire. It’s cold, so I’m gifted a fleece bisht for my stay, which I wear almost 24/7, even when blue sky appears and the sun comes out to warm the rocks. In the valley, it’s a different kind of cold.

The villas snake up the valley from reception to the infinity pool and Tama restaurant at the top. Mine, a Celestial Villa, sits on the left with close-up views of the supersized sandstone rocks when I draw the curtains back. It’s a lesson in understated luxury: there are no TV intrusions, no glow-in-the-dark alarm clocks, just natural woods from floor to ceiling and a beautiful presentation of organic materials. The bed is positioned to enjoy the views and the wet-decked bathroom flooded with light from the valley side.

Just visible from Tama is Najma, the striking silhouette of a blue ‘woman’ perched on a precipice by Lita Albuquerque. She’s one of many unconventional artworks dotted around the resort. There’s One Two Three, Swing! by Superflex - swing sets hidden in an alcove; Now You See Me, Now You Don’t trampoline ‘puddles’ by Manal Aldowayan; Falling Stones Garden of 320 multi-coloured rocks by Mohamed Ahmed Ibrahim; and On Parade by Nadim Karam, a fantastical procession of nature’s creatures that march alongside you as you arrive.

On my first night, I’m ferried to Habitas’ sister property, Caravans by Habitas - a collection of retro-chic Airstream RVs - to watch a movie projected onto the seemingly sky-high rocks at Caravan Cinema; the following night, I venture back for a party celebrating the opening of Caravans’ new food trucks. The place teeming with Saudis arriving from near and far to try AlUla’s hippest new experience.

There is so much to do at Habitas AlUla and in its surrounds, you could fill a whole magazine. The historic tombs of Hegra - Saudi’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site and a thriving Nabataean city from the middle of the first century - Elephant Rock and Jabal Ikmah are essential viewings, while the 700-year-old labyrinthine streets of AlUla Old Town are like an open-air museum, and Al Maraya is an incredible mirrored events venue that shimmers like a mirage in the desert.

There is also hiking, stargazing, camel rides, hot air balloons, ziplining, dune buggy tours and, for a more soporific experience, yoga, massages and traditional treatments at Habitas AlUla’s Thuraya Wellness, which is named after a star constellation used by bedouins to navigate.

The stories here run deep. History with every blink of the eye. And Habitas AlUla soaks up every last detail and turns them into rich, meaningful immersions that stir the soul. It’s a special place - a very special place indeed - that you have to see to believe. I have never taken so many photos, and I have never wanted to return to a place more. I think that says it all...