I’m in the middle of course two of Mauro Colagreco’s impeccable five course tasting menu, when a group emerges from the private dining room. The brunette female at the centre of the assembly is laughing at something one of the sharply dressed gentlemen just shared. She is a member of the British royal family, and I am at Raffles London at the OWO.
Weightlessly romantic, powered by nostalgia and timeless refinement, the five-star hotel oozes royal pedigree and historical charm. The former Old War Office – a Grade II-listed Edwardian building built in 1906 on the former site of the original Palace of Whitehall – houses 120 exquisite rooms, of which there are 39 suites, each with a storied past. Purchased by the Hinduja brothers in 2016 for Dhs1.7 billion (US$427 million), it took seven years and a Dhs7.3 billion (US$2 billion) restoration – including a 25-metre downward excavation to create the hotel’s spa and wellness floors – to create the outstanding hotel that exists today.
Stepping into the glitzy black and white chequered-floor foyer, one must be prepared to be captivated by its opulence. The grand staircase, crafted from fine Derbyshire alabaster and Italian marble, leads to the landing from which Sir Winston Churchill would deliver his daily speeches. I’m informed the former Prime Minister would rub the nose of the lion on the right balustrade for good luck, every time he passed on the way to his office. I couldn’t resist following suit.
Historically, the building has been inhabited by numerous iconic and influential political and military figures, including Lord Haldane and T.E. Lawrence. It was also the birthplace of British spy agencies MI5 and MI6, and was the main source of inspiration (and then the film set), for many of Ian Fleming’s James Bond movies. Fleming worked at Britain’s Naval Intelligence Division during WWII as a liaison with the Secret Intelligence Services of the War Office, and was fascinated by the spies who would appear and disappear, as if by magic, through secret doors.
The weight of the hotel’s past can be felt at every turn, in particular, in its five heritage suites, housed in the building’s former offices, three of which are named after those who occupied them – The Haldane Suite, The Churchill Suite, The Granville Suite, The Raffles Suite and The Turret Suite. Boasting original sculptured stone fireplaces, palatial panelling, and mosaic work impeccably restored under the meticulous eye of late Thierry Despont (the accomplished architect passed away merely a month before the hotel opened), the suites are true representatives of British artisanal excellence.
A captivating blend of rich history and modern comfort, my enchanting duplex abode, The Turret Suite, instantly transports me to a bygone era of royal splendour, with its regal bedroom swathed in bespoke botanical wallpaper, and its spa-like bathroom peppered with luxe amenities designed by Azzi Glasser. The eye is then drawn down the stately wood-panelled corridor, leading to a spiral staircase. Once climbed, the suite’s pièce de résistance is revealed – a spherical lounge, housed within one of the building’s original turrets, presenting unparalleled views of the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, St. James’s Park, and Horse Guards Parade – where every morning, the famous Changing of the Guard ceremony takes place.
The hotel is vast. Aside from the exquisite rooms, nine restaurants and three bars offer culinary and mixology excellence. Eponymously named, Mauro Colagreco is the signature fine-dining restaurant where attention to the earth is at the heart of the gastronomic philosophy and its one-of-a-kind, epicurean experience that shines the spotlight on the humble British vegetable. Dishes range across land and sea, always focusing on a fruit or vegetable hero, delivered with a beautifully illustrated card describing on its reverse the history of the ingredient. Opt for the wine pairing, too.
Additionally, don’t miss Café Lapérouse, a Parisian institution since the late 1700s, transporting its refined menu of French classics to London, with its first UK outpost.
For a post-dinner tipple, stop by The Guards Bar & Lounge where the eclectic menu is inspired by Raffles’ iconic Singapore Sling. Deconstructing the ingredients from the famous cocktail, each iteration represents a flavour element of the original, with a focus on local British essences. The London Sling is a must-try. A visit wouldn’t be complete without calling in on the Spy Bar, which occupies a former interrogation room in the basement. But you’ll have to discover that one for yourself, as the details are classified.
The jewel in the crown for many – particularly after nosing around the hotel’s several miles of historic corridors alongside the in-house historian on a fascinating guided tour (offered to hotel guests) – Guerlain Spa needs to be seen to be believed. Spanning four floors, the subterranean state-of-the-art wellness haven is the ultimate space to unwind in its glorious pools and plush treatment rooms. Also be sure to visit L’Atelier Guerlain, where perfume aficionados will guide you on an expedition through the Parisian beauty brand’s scents, including one of Princess Diana’s favourite fragrances, Insolence.
The epitome of elegance and a truly magnificent addition to London’s thriving hotel scene, it’s no wonder Raffles London at the OWO has just been awarded thirteenth place on the prestigious The World’s 50 Best Hotels list. I’m already plotting my return visit…
