What are your first memories of cooking?
I don’t have any real defining memories but at the age of 16, I had a Saturday job as a kitchen porter, before progressing to breakfast chef. I liked the buzz and the fast pace of the kitchen and knew I wanted to delve more into this world. It was here, when they started to teach me how to cook, that I discovered I was good at it. It was very satisfying and creative. I knew then this is what I wanted to do; I felt a natural calling so to speak.
Tell us about your early days as a chef - are there any valuable lessons you learned there that you continue to use today?
I stand by one simple lesson to this day - Keep it simple! Do it well!
You have honed your craft in restaurants all over the world including England, Australia and France; how important is it for young chefs to go out and experience new food cultures in their culinary journey?
It’s very important! No matter how much you know, one can always learn more. It’s about learning the different approach to ingredients and cooking methods from chefs in other countries and embracing new cultures and culinary rituals.
How has the food scene changed in Ireland from when you started out?
People are a lot more knowledgeable about food and they are more adventurous, with much more demanding palettes. People are well travelled and want to experience the same standard of top-level cuisine when they are home. There are also many more quality producers who see their role as a craft and they are making some of the best quality ingredients available. Well-produced and well-sourced produce is an imperative for the menus here at Lady Helen.
You have said that when creating dishes, you strive for purity and balance. Can you talk us through your creative process when it comes to crafting a new dish?
I wish I knew. I use seasonable produce that is top quality; well sourced produce is a priority. I like to cook food that people enjoy, that they will remember, and want to eat again.
Tell us about Lady Helen. What can guests expect?
We offer an eight-course seasonal tasting menu. The dishes were inspired by food I experienced from my travels, from my locality and culinary traditions from my own upbringing. The dining setting in the Georgian Manor House offers what is a true Irish estate country house experience. It’s quite special.
Lady Helen is a member of The Luminary Set. How does it feel to be a part of this special collection of restaurants and what does it mean to you personally?
It means a lot; it’s an honour to be in such good company. The Luminary Set allows me to showcase what we do at Lady Helen to a greater audience. This experience alone enriches the team around me and opens a gateway for them to expand their horizons.
Which member of The Luminary Set inspires you the most?
Jason Atherton from London. He is a very successful chef and for 20 years has been at the top of his game - no easy feat! He recently attained two Michelin stars in his restaurant Row on 45 in Dubai and is a member of The Luminary Set. He has also opened a sister restaurant in London, Row on 5, which no doubt will attain great things.
Outside of cooking, do you have any other passions?
One of my great loves outside cooking is taking my two red setters hunting. I find it a great way to switch off and hit the outdoors. I have set a goal this year that I want to learn how to fly fish.
And finally, are there any exciting announcements you would like to tell us about?
We have a wonderful sommelier at Lady Helen, Jean-Baptiste Renault. Jean-Baptiste and I have created a new Prestige Wine Pairing Menu. This was a passion project, and the result is a truly unique menu featuring rare, heritage and prestige wines from Jean-Baptiste’s preferred appellations. It’s going to be an exceptional experience for our guests.
THE GRILLING
First dish you really ‘mastered’ cooking?
Eggs Benedict! Cooking the perfect egg and making the perfect hollandaise is not to be underestimated.
Best piece of advice you’ve been given throughout your career?
When I left Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Head Chef Guillaume Lebrun said, “Just because you have worked here don’t expect everything to turn to Michelin stars. You have to work hard!”
Favourite dish to cook?
The veal dish on the Lady Helen tasting menu.
Three ingredients you could never cook without?
Butter, salt and pepper.
Bar your own, favourite restaurant in the world?
Le Pré Catelan, a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Paris. I had a wonderful meal and experience there with my wife, Linda. Cooking excellent food is one thing, but creating a lifelong memory is another and is something this restaurant does really well.
Favourite city to travel to for food?
Paris, France. I asked my wife Linda to marry me there. We both love going back.
If you had a last meal, what would it be and why?
Steak frites - classics never die!
Greatest food indulgence?
McDonald’s now and then; sure why not!?
Strangest thing you’ve eaten?
Tripe in France and I hated it.
Who has inspired you most throughout your career and why?
Chef Guillaume Lebrun from the two-Michelin-star Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud. Celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2024, Chef Guillaume has an unparalleled work ethic and commitment to the task. It’s a very impressive career and he is very inspiring. His work ethic and creative talent is the key to his being at the top of his game over such a long period of time.
Favourite chef autobiography?
I don’t read many autobiographies, but The Seasoning of a Chef: My Journey from Diner to Ducasse and Beyond by Doug Psaltis was a great read.
