“All roads lead to Madrid,” proclaims my tour guide, Ana Cristina, as we gaze down at the Origen de Las Carreteras Radiales landmark in the city’s Puerta del Sol. We are standing at the geographical centre of Madrid and indeed Spain itself, alongside other eager visitors who have plotted a course for the famous plaque. Steeped in history, packed with world-famous art galleries, flush with high-end shopping and brimming with cultural treasures, there is something for every visitor no matter their chosen path in Madrid.
To the west of us stands the Royal Palace of Madrid and its 3,418 rooms, an opulent enclave whose vast courtyard has been a stage for official royal ceremonies and processions for centuries. The official residence of King Felipe IV has stood in its current guise since the 17th century, when King Philip V ordered its reconstruction in stone after a fire destroyed the original wooden alcazar (Moorish palace). One of the largest palatial buildings in the world, guests are free to explore the opulent interiors where the works of Caravaggio, Goya and Velázquez are on display alongside the Royal Quartet, a collection of two violins, a viola and a cello made by Antonio Stradivarius.
After the obligatory photos in the Royal Plaza and a quick pit stop at the Royal Armoury to check-out some dashing suits of iron and chainmail — there’s even one for dogs — we make a beeline for Almudena Cathedral. Emblematic of the destination’s dichotomy of old intertwining with new, the building opened its doors in 1993 and showcases ceilings that bear closer resemblance Roy Lichtenstein’s Pop-Art creations than Michelangelo’s odes to religious figures.
A gentle amble from here takes explorers to Templo de Debod, an Egyptian temple that was brought stone by stone from North Africa, whose rooftop offers some of the best sunset views in the city. When day turns to night, embrace the fire and passion of flamenco, Spain’s impassioned blend of song and dance that’s laced with lament and fast-paced, percussive guitars, delivered with a swirl of fire-red lace dresses and clattering castanets. At Corral de la Morería, a 20-minute walk from the temple, diners can tuck into a Michelin-starred meal before turning attention to the bailaor (male dancer) and bailaora (female dancer) who captivate through a series of flirtatious and explosive movements to the tones of encouragement from the cantaor (singer).
A MEETING OF TWO CULTURES
Founded by Muslim ruler Emir Muhammad I in the ninth century, Madrid is generously endowed with an architectural style known as mudéjar, a fusion between Islamic and Christian techniques, examples of which are dotted through the winding back streets. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Plaza de San Salvador and the houses and tower of Lujanes. The oldest civic building in the city, its mudéjar style can be identified by the distinctly different types of stonework as the building evolved and enlarged over the years, with granite (Christian) on the bottom and brick (Islamic) on the upper part. Walk down the alleyway beside the tower — named Elbow Street, thanks to its sharp turn — and you will find Convento de las Carboneras del Corpus Christi, where an unusual vertical painting of The Last Supper hangs above the altar.
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After a coffee at Plaza Del Conde de Barajas where, on Sundays, amateur artists and painters line the square and flex their skills for passers-by to see, it’s time for a decision. Turn right and you will find Calle Cava Baja for a smorgasbord of tapas venues, or turn left for the oldest restaurant in the world, Casa Botín. Still rustling up recipes from the same kitchen that opened in 1725, the ancient eatery has survived the Napoleonic invasion of 1808, the Spanish Civil War and influenza pandemics. Arrive early and you can go for a quick exploration inside that includes all four dining rooms, cellar, underground tunnels and a peek inside the original oven.
If you prefer a little bit of everything, enter Mercado de San Miguel, where more than 20 stands take you on a culinary journey of Spain, with fresh Galician fish, Castilian cheese and Andalusian wine on offer. Plaza Mayor is another idyllic spot for a quick bite – a fried calamari sandwich is highly recommended – and people-watching on the square.
A little further in the centre, I discover why lunches at Lhardy have always been famous. Opened in 1839, it is said the history of Lhardy is the history of Madrid. The restaurant was a popular haunt for Spanish royalty and high-ranking politicians, and was famously the scene of infamous spy Mata Hari’s last lunch before being apprehended in 1916. Fortunately for me, the only apprehending I experience is from the servers, who insist I try a selection of cheeses; after a three-course serving of stew croquettes, Canetón duck and artisanal ice-cream with hot chocolate.
FASHION FIRST
“Ready for shopping?” laughs Ana. Madrid has a deserved reputation as one of Europe’s fashion capitals. There’s the golden mile of Calle Serrano, where international and homegrown brands sit side-by-side; or Spain’s answer to Broadway, Gran Vía, which is packed with some of the country’s most iconic buildings including Four Seasons Hotel Madrid, as well as premium shopping destinations. All your luxury shopping needs come together under one roof at the Galería Canalejas, a former collection of banks and insurance companies that has swapped finance for fashion and is home to the biggest names in style, jewellery and perfumery including Cartier, Hermès and Rolex.
Should your stomach begin to murmur, drop down to the ground floor where Canalejas Food Hall serves up a buffet of fine and casual dining venues. But for those searching for true Madrid chic, kit yourself out in a traditional capa (cape) at Seseña, where past clientele have included Ernest Hemingway and Pablo Picasso. Select your colour and fabric, have your measurements taken and relax before your shoulders are adorned with an authentic piece of Spanish style.
THE ARTISTIC EAST
Allow your compass to direct you east towards the artistic heart of Madrid, Paseo del Arte, an artful trifecta comprising three of the finest museums in the world. At Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, collections span the history of art between the 13th and 20th century including the Gothic stylings of Jan van Eyck and Monet’s late work. Purchase the full experience to explore the 10-room Carmen Thyssen Collection that spotlights work from Van Gogh to Signac as well as the temporary exhibit of love by contemporary Spanish artist Noemi Iglesias Barrios.
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A little further along is the Museo Nacional del Prado. Exhibiting artworks since 1819 due to the encouragement of King Ferdinand VII by his wife Queen Maria Isabel de Braganza, this museum houses more than 8,000 paintings, so ensure that you clear the schedule for a full day. Goya’s Black Paintings, Velázquez’s Las Meninas and Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights are compulsory viewing, but Paolo Veronese’s Venus and Adonis and Albrecht Dürer’s self-portrait, which refuses to take its eyes off admirers, should also be ticked off your list.
BACK TO NATURE
The verdant hills that surround the winding roads out of the city centre belie the toasty temperatures that the area has been enjoying this Spring. We’re bound for the Alcalá de Henares in the Comunidad de Madrid, where we are greeted by a Romanesque gate known as Puerta de Madrid that ushers visitors into a small town full of surprises.
Mornings are sleepy here especially at weekends, when the only residents that rise early are the giant storks, clacking away from their nests atop every rooftop. But when the clock strikes midday, the longest porticoed street in Spain, Calle Mayor, comes alive with shops opening their shutters and hungry diners taking up residence at the tables and chairs that line the pedestrianised thoroughfare.
Midway along the avenue is the perfectly preserved home of Don Quixote author Miguel de Cervantes. Further along is Plaza de Cervantes, which is awash with families and children playing games in the early afternoon sun and old gentlemen discussing the latest results from La Liga (Spain’s premier football league) – there’s still only one team in town for most loyal Madrileños. History buffs will find a treasure trove of interests: there’s Casa de la Entrevista (The House of The Interview), an old monastery where Christopher Columbus asked Queen Isabella to fund his trip to explore the Americas and the birthplace of Catherine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII, who lived to tell the tale. It’s also the location for Spain’s first university and campus, Universidad de Alcalá, an institution that required students to enrol for the best part of two decades before coming down to an all-day examination in front of baying faculty of peers and teachers – those who failed were shamed with a pair of donkey ears. Luckily for me it’s holiday time.
SETTING SAIL
For an education in royal suburbia, travel down to the flowing rivers and stunning gardens of Aranjuez. The preferred Spring residence of the kings and queens of Spain, the Royal Palace of Aranjuez was established as a royal hunting lodge. Today, you have the opportunity to admire rooms made of porcelain, gleaming chandeliers and pastel pink exteriors.
However, it is the ‘French’ garden that takes centre stage and is the main reason why the Landscape of Aranjuez earned its recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001. Wander through more than 111 hectares of lush trees and plants dotted with 16th century fountains depicting epic stories of Greek mythology, like Hercules overcoming the seven-headed hydra and Apollo striking a pose. The sound of the rushing rivers colloquially described as ‘The Castanets’ is only disturbed by squawks from the gaggles of geese and squeals of iridescent peacocks that roam the area.
And where there is water, there are boats, especially at the Museo de Falúas Reales. Obscured from view by over-bearing trees and with no signposts to guide us through El Jardín de Principe, the museum sits beside the Royal Dock and its pavilions, holding six boats and 40 objects of nautical interest that belonged to the kings of Spain. The oldest and arguably most spectacular of the boats is the recreation of Charles III’s Neapolitan-made golden gondola. Completed in 1688, it was used by the king and queen on the canals and Great Lake of the Buen Retiro Palace gardens before being moved to La Granja de San Ildefonso by order of Luis I and docking for the final time in 1966 at the museum.
The concept and boundaries that constitute Madrid have changed throughout the centuries, with different influences from home and abroad leaving their indelible mark on the destination. From architecture to food and literature, Madrid has evolved its own unique style. For any traveller contemplating a Spanish adventure, all roads should lead to Madrid.
