“That. Is. So. Good!” exclaims my date as she savours a second helping of my moreish chocolate in a cup dessert that I've foolishly offered her an opportunity to sample. I stare down at my half-devoured dessert; a simple teacup that has been transformed into a sweet dining experience with a toasty Gianduja cake, layered with vanilla gelato and topped with banana foam and chocolate crumble. I take a bite and immediately forgive her for the second spoonful.
We’re in the eclectic surrounds of Akira Back Dubai, situated on the fifth floor of W Dubai – The Palm, and we are in the final bites of an evening that has spotlighted the culinary creativity of Chef Akira Back. Famed for his innovative Japanese cuisine with hints of Korean, the professional snowboarder-turned-chef has garnered a loyal following of gourmands throughout the globe, as well as a handsome collection of accolades – and on this evening’s spread, it’s easy to see why.
After entering a vortex-style entrance, the evening begins with a delicate aperitif of fortified sake, infused with raspberry vodka. A perfect palate cleanser, we request another before our elegant hostess leads us to the main restaurant. Here, aesthetes of Japanese design can delight at the use of Wabi-Sabi – the Japanese art of finding beauty in imperfection – peppered throughout the venue. The restaurant is vast and oozes a sense of unapologetic coolness with its dark floors, dark walls, smooth house beats and oodles of low lighting. “Where would you like to sit?” enquires our delightful server. The choices are plentiful. There are highchairs at the sushi counter, offering prime viewing of the culinary staff’s skills in the open kitchen; cushy velvet alcoves for those wishing to enjoy an intimate dinner; and low-level tables that look out through floor-to-ceiling windows to the neon city skyline. If the weather permits, the terrace yields the best views the restaurant has to offer, however, it’s still a little too warm to dine outside in Dubai’s sultry evenings. “Window table for two, please!”
As you cast your eyes over a bountiful menu that features soup, hot and cold starters, salads, signature rolls, robata, sashimi, mains and sides, treat yourself to a signature Akira Back cocktail. We try the wonderfully sweet Summer, and refreshing Sakura Collins, that do not disappoint. For starters, begin the feasting with a sharing-size bowl of crispy calamari. Sprinkled with togarashi and lime, the dish comes accompanied by a serving of sticky and flavourful jalapeño mae ploy sauce that packs a serious punch. The lobster tempura really hits the spot with its savoury amazu ponzu sauce, but we truly can’t get enough of the AB Wagyu tacos that are packed with Wagyu bulgogi, roasted tomato ponzu and crowned with a green jalapeño. Allow yourself to be tempted by the signature rolls section too, where the exquisite baked crab hand roll and brother from another mother (unagi kabayaki, anago tempura, shaved foie gras torchon and a pot of sesame aioli), come highly recommended.
First course thoroughly enjoyed, it’s time to relish the larger plates. The robata section showcases a collection of grilled delights, including two pieces of perfectly cooked lamb chops, with smoked jalapeño and oh-so- tender grilled spatchcock chicken, lathered in chipotle miso. However, as enticing they may be, it is impossible to overlook Akira Back’s famous miso black cod, served with a cloud of yuja foam and the sumptuous suma striploin; a 250g cut of Australian Wagyu that is presented ever so stylishly, with a pinch of mala chimichurri on every slice for a sublime contrast of flavours.
The dessert menu inspires us to find some extra space to squeeze in a final dish, mainly because the butter mochi cake with coconut sorbet, salted caramel popcorn and macadamia, and the aforementioned chocolate in a cup are simply too good to pass up. There’s also yuzu citrus, a sable crumble with strawberry gelato, and the black sesame crème – a divine caramel rice crispy with mandarin sorbet, but those will have to wait for another time.
As far as Dubai dining goes, Akira Back definitely needs to be on your radar. An uber-chic restaurant that pushes the boundaries of Japanese gastronomy one plate at a time. Right, I need to go before the rest of my dessert disappears.
