“You simply must try the chifa duck fried rice,” beckons our wonderfully attentive manager, Eleonora. We take a few moments to contemplate this temptation. The previous two hours have seen us travel on a sublime gastronomic adventure of the Americas which is now putting serious pressure on our belt buckles. “Another stop on this epic culinary tour?” we ask ourselves. “Let’s do it!”
We’re in the vibrant and colourful surrounds of ZOCO. Perched on the seventh floor of V Hotel Dubai, Curio Collection by Hilton in Al Habtoor City, this warm yet eclectic restaurant, where walls are adorned with fedoras and kaleidoscopic artworks, recently reopened its doors to the world in September and has become a favourite of gourmands with a penchant for exquisite Pan-American cuisine.
After alighting from the elevator, we are greeted by some epic panoramas that stretch the entire length of Sheikh Zayed Road. One could admire the views for quite some time but with our stomachs murmuring, we make our way to our table that is complemented by plush, green-leathered chairs. The restaurant is compact with the low lighting creating a perfect environment for an intimate dinner or a post work get-together. Our position provides us with impeded viewing of the busy-open kitchen, where the culinary team craft and curate their smorgasbord of fiery and flavourful tastes. However, if you can’t get enough of those endless, dreamy vistas, you can place yourself on a high table beside the window.
It’s Friday evening and the gentle taps of bongos, that will later turn into wonderful Latin ballads, accompany our perusing of the menu. For those that prefer deep Latin house vibes, a DJ takes centre stage from the booth from Tuesday to Saturday. As you study the menu of mouthwatering plates from Mexico to Peru, select a refreshing cocktail. We opt for a Brazilian caipirinha and a glass of sangria to kick off proceedings.
For starters, it’s hard to look past the aged-old favourite of guacamole. Here, you have two choices; classic guacamole and the spicy tuna that is packed with crushed avocado, spicy tuna chipotle, pico de gallo and sprinkled pomegranate; that come with multi-coloured banana and tortilla chips. In the raw and maki rolls section, beef tataki, tuna tartare and soft-shell crab acevichado will catch your attention but we thoroughly recommend the ceviche carretillero mixto. It’s a bowl of raw red snapper, shrimps, calamari, shrimp rocoto, red onion, coriander, baby gems and crushed canche chulpe that is placed in tiger’s milk, a concoction of citrus juice, chillies, onions and cilantro and it is simply delicious.
Next, it’s time to enjoy some hot starters. Cheese lovers are obliged to order the cassava bread, five pieces of ball-shaped tapioca starch that is filled with oozing Emmental and mozzarella cheese and accompanied by a sweet truffle honey dip. Those who delight at savoury bites, should request the moreish chicken adobo tacos and the beef short ribs bao, a slow-cooked short rib lathered in teriyaki sauce alongside coriander mint leaves and carrot-radish pickle, and all packed into a jet-black bao bun. With the first course complete, we take a small pause to enjoy the live entertainment which is starting to raise the tempo with some toe-tappingly good tunes.
Once ready for the main course, it’s advisable to team up as the portions are sharing size, especially the mighty black onyx Angus rib-eye MB3. There’s grilled smoked lamb chops, 48 hours sous vide short ribs and parihuela prawns too. However, the fish meloso rice with its exquisitely cooked sea bass fillet, topped with chalaca salsa and placed on a bed of incredible green meloso rice and the aforementioned sizzling chifa duck fried rice, are just too good to overlook.
Somehow, we have space for dessert which comes in the form of four leches cake with whipped cream and strawberry gel. There’s also crispy churros and classic chocolate fondant which we will no doubt devour on our next visit. The Pan-American dining scene is flourishing in Dubai and ZOCO needs to be at the top of your list to visit. A stylish venue where you can taste the plates of Pan-America without ever having to leave the city. Right, the chifa duck fried rice has arrived and it’s time to dig in. Adios!
